Screen-and-recoat
Light abrasion and a new finish film. Use it for a dull finish or light scratch haze. It usually costs less, and it does not consume a full sanding cycle. It is the first recommendation when the UV-cured film is dull but not deeply cut. If the wear layer remains, screening preserves the one-to-three full cycles.
Full sand
Sand the wear layer, then stain and finish. Use it for deep scratches or a colour change. It spends one of the typical one-to-three lifetime cycles. The original stain-formula code, from the complimentary match on the first order, is what lets the refinisher reproduce the approved colour after that sand.
Plan the window around Toronto’s climate and the building, not only around crew availability. Spring and fall often hold indoor RH nearer 35–55%, which helps a UV-compatible recoat cure. Avoid a deep-freeze week at 20–30% RH, or a muggy spell near 60–70%, unless the room is dehumidified. After the work, hold 35–55% so the new film cures against stable moisture.
In a condominium, sanding equipment needs a booked freight elevator and dust control, on the same logistics as the original install. Quiet hours apply. Factor elevator fees and a temporary move into a tower quote. Tell the refinisher whether radiant heat will stay on while the finish cures.
Herringbone and chevron need a crew that can protect the geometry. Blocks are 5 by 25 inch for herringbone and 5 by 25½ inch for chevron, in Grade AB, and the facet lines have to stay crisp. The grooves collect grit, so a pattern floor reaches a full sand sooner if that grit is ignored.
Bring the original notes: European white oak, grade AB or ABC, and the format, whether straight plank at 7½, 9¼, or 10¼ inch or one of those pattern sizes, plus any stain code. Ask how the crew verifies remaining oak thickness, and whether they recommend a screen first. Hand them the 3/4 inch specification.